The thing nobody tells you about Guilin: the karst peaks you saw on Instagram are mostly *not* in Guilin city. They're downriver, around Yangshuo, and the single best stretch — the one printed on the back of the ¥20 note — sits at a sleepy fishing town called Xingping that half of tour groups skip. Get the geography right and this is one of the most rewarding trips in China. Get it wrong and you spend two days in a traffic-clogged city looking at one elephant-shaped rock. Here's how to do it like someone who's actually cycled the Yulong River at 7am with the mist still on the water. ## How many days, and where to base yourself Four days is the comfortable minimum; five if you want Longji without rushing. Spend zero nights in Guilin city if you can help it — land or arrive by train, then head straight to **Yangshuo** (about 1.5 hours by bus, or 30 min by high-speed train plus a transfer). Yangshuo is your base for the river, the cycling, and the caves. The one Guilin-city thing worth doing is the **Two Rivers Four Lakes (两江四湖)** night boat if you have a spare evening before flying out — it's genuinely pretty after dark. Elephant Trunk Hill? It's a fine photo from outside the gate; the ¥75 ticket to stand next to it is not. ## The Li River cruise — what to actually book The classic experience is the **4-star tourist cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo**, roughly 4.5 hours covering the best 60-odd km of the river. Expect **¥360–480 per person in 2026** (price depends on cabin deck; lunch included). Boats leave from **Zhujiang Pier (竹江码头)** outside the city — most hotels and OTAs bundle the transfer. It's scenic and relaxing, but it's a big boat with a crowd and a buffet. The locals' move is different and cheaper: take the high-speed train or bus straight to **Xingping (兴坪)**, the old town two-thirds of the way down, and do a short **bamboo raft** on that stretch only. The Xingping–Nine Horses Hill section is the postcard, and it's where the **¥20 banknote view** is. A motorised raft runs roughly ¥150 per person for the prettiest segment. | Option | Price (2026) | Best for | |---|---|---| | Full 4-star cruise Guilin→Yangshuo | ¥360–480 | First-timers who want the whole river, one ticket | | Xingping bamboo raft (short section) | ~¥150/raft seat | Travelers basing in Yangshuo who want the best bit without the crowd | | Yulong River raft (Yangshuo) | ~¥150–180 | Quiet, hand-poled, countryside — *not* the Li River, but lovely | ## The ¥20 note viewpoint at Xingping (and the better free one) Everyone queues to hold up a ¥20 bill against the matching peaks at the official riverside spot near Xingping — fun, free, mildly chaotic. Ignore the touts charging to "take your photo." Then walk 20 minutes up **Laozhai Hill (老寨山)** behind the town: it's a free climb, the crowd thins to almost nothing, and the view over the river bend at sunset beats the banknote selfie. Bring water; the steps are steep. ## Yangshuo: cycle the countryside, don't camp on West Street **West Street (西街)** is Yangshuo's tourist artery — neon bars, souvenir stalls, a Starbucks, and beer fish at triple the going rate. Walk through it once for the buzz, eat elsewhere. The real Yangshuo is the **countryside on two wheels**. Rent an e-scooter (¥30/day from a licensed shop) or a bike and ride the **Yulong River (遇龙河)** valley — the **Jinlong Bridge to Jiuxian** stretch is the dreamy one, paddies and old stone bridges and almost no cars. The **Ten-Mile Gallery (十里画廊)** cycling route runs the other direction; skip the paid mini-attractions along it (mostly tourist traps) and just ride. **Gongnong Bridge (工农桥)** is the sunset spot — show up after 4pm. If you want a raft, do the **hand-poled bamboo raft on the Yulong River** (~¥150–180) rather than a motorised one — quieter, slower, and you drift right past the karst with only the sound of the pole in the water. ## Longji rice terraces — which village, and when The Longji (Longsheng) terraces are a 1.5–2 hour bus ride north of Guilin, and worth an overnight if your timing's right. Two main villages, and the choice matters: - **Jinkeng / Dazhai (金坑大寨)** — bigger, more dramatic, terraces stacked up the mountain. There's a **cable car (¥80 round trip)** to save the climb, and direct shuttle buses run from Guilin and Yangshuo. This is the one for sheer wow. - **Ping'an (平安)** — gentler, tidier, easier walking, prettier terrace *lines*. Better if you're driving in or want a calmer pace. It's also where the tour groups cluster. Timing is everything: **late May to June** for the mirror-flooded paddies (planting season — reflections everywhere), and **late September to mid-October** for the golden harvest. July–August the rice is green and the mirror's gone; winter occasionally dusts with snow. Skip the **Huangluo "long-hair village"** add-on unless choreographed hair-combing shows are your thing. ## A suggested 5-day itinerary | Day | Plan | |---|---| | 1 | Arrive Guilin, transfer straight to Yangshuo. Evening stroll, find beer fish off the main drag | | 2 | Train/bus to Xingping; bamboo raft the ¥20-note section, climb Laozhai Hill for sunset | | 3 | E-scooter or bike the Yulong River valley + Ten-Mile Gallery; sunset at Gongnong Bridge | | 4 | Early bus to Longji (Jinkeng/Dazhai), cable car up, overnight in a terrace guesthouse | | 5 | Sunrise over the terraces, return to Guilin; optional Two Rivers Four Lakes night boat before flying out | Short on time? Cut Longji and do it in 3 days: Yangshuo base, one river day, one cycling day. ## Best time to visit **April–May and September–October** are the sweet spots — mild, and the terraces are at their best. Summer (Jul–Aug) is hot, humid, and busy, but the river's at full flow and the karst greenest; aim for **early July or after Aug 20** to dodge the school-holiday peak. Winter is quiet and cheap but the rafts may not run and skies turn grey. Avoid the **May 1 and Oct 1 national holidays** entirely — every viewpoint becomes a queue. ## Getting there & getting around Guilin has its own airport (**KWL**) and sits on the high-speed rail network (Guilin North / Guilin West stations). To reach Yangshuo: a **high-speed train** runs Guilin→Yangshuo in about 30 minutes (¥22–34, 2nd class) — but note **Yangshuo Station is actually in Xingping, ~22km from Yangshuo town**, with a connecting bus (¥20, ~1 hour). For most people the **direct Guilin–Yangshuo bus (~1.5 hrs)** that drops you in town is simpler. Around Yangshuo, rent a **bike or e-scooter**; taxis and Didi cover the gaps. For Longji, book the **direct shuttle bus** from Guilin or Yangshuo — it goes straight to the village car park, no transfer at the ticket office needed. ## Where to stay Stay in or just outside **Yangshuo town** for walkability, or out in the **Yulong River countryside** for boutique guesthouses with karst views from your balcony (quieter, but you'll want a scooter). For Longji, sleeping **in the terraces overnight** is the move — you get sunrise and sunset without the day-tripper crowds, and the village guesthouses serve solid home cooking (bamboo-tube rice, cured pork). ## Local tips that save your trip - **Eat off West Street.** A whole beer fish there can hit ¥300+; head to **Chengzhong Road (城中路)** or Xianqian Street where locals eat and it's half the price. Order **jiangu fish (剑骨鱼)** for fewer bones. - **Try the oil tea (油茶)** — a savoury, slightly bitter local brew, about ¥8 a bowl. It grows on you. - **Guilin rice noodles:** skip the polished chain shops, find the hole-in-the-wall with plastic stools out front. - **Carry cash and Alipay both** — small raft operators and village stalls aren't always card-friendly. - **Sunscreen and a thin rain poncho** — the UV is no joke and summer rain arrives without warning. ## What to skip - The big-budget **Li River night show** — heavily marketed, generic, expensive. The free Two Rivers Four Lakes night boat gives you more atmosphere. - **Overpriced motorised rafts** sold as "Li River" experiences from random touts — book the Xingping section or the hand-poled Yulong raft instead. - **Paid mini-attractions along the Ten-Mile Gallery** — the ride itself is the point; most of the ticketed stops aren't. - **Elephant Trunk Hill entry ticket** — photograph it free from the riverbank. ## Before you go A few practical things to sort at home so you're not scrambling on arrival: - **Visa:** many nationalities now enter China visa-free for short stays — check the latest in our [visa-free guide](/en/visa-free/). - **Stay connected:** grab a travel **eSIM** before you fly so Maps and Didi work the moment you land — see our [eSIM guide](/en/esim/). - **Payments:** set up **Alipay for foreigners** so you can pay rafts, scooters, and noodle stalls by phone — our [Alipay guide](/en/pay/alipay-for-foreigners/) walks you through it.